While far from as eclectic as neighboring Ethiopia or Kenya, street food in South Sudan not only exists, but is not without a few gems. And all of this of course has been greatly affected by the many struggles that have gotten the place to where it is today.
Despite these challenges, there are more than enough decent restaurants to eat and drink, as well as a somewhat nascent street food in South Sudan scene. Here is the YPT guide to getting street eats in the newest nation on earth.
Brief History of South Sudan
South Sudan, the world’s youngest country (as things stand), became independent from Sudan in 2011. But instead of ushering in an era of hope and peace, independence has largely been overshadowed by civil war, ethnic strife, and corruption, with little respite for its long-suffering people. The country’s wealth—mainly oil, cattle, and its complex tribal politics—has done little to ease tensions, and it remains a nation on the brink of another conflict.
Juba, the capital, has become a bit of a playground for NGOs, journalists, the United Nations, and, as I like to call it, the Peace Industrial Complex. So, if you are picturing tin hats, 4×4’s white people and overpriced beer then you are pretty much on the money.
The Food Scene in South Sudan
Let’s not sugarcoat things: South Sudanese cuisine isn’t exactly a Michelin-star experience. But in a country plagued by war, food insecurity, and limited resources, the food culture here is a testament to survival rather than gastronomy. The staples of the cuisine often include simple dishes of maize, rice, and meat, with plenty of stews and grains to go around.
This is where foreign influence does make a positive impact. Juba is home to a growing number of expats, many of whom have brought their culinary preferences with them. As a result, you’ll find a surprisingly solid restaurant scene with plenty of Western style options for those seeking comfort food. Notable spots include Afex and Notus, both of which offer great food and service in a comfortable setting. In fact this weirdly means that South Sudan and Juba actually have one of the best regional food scenes, with Khartoum not even being able to hold a torch to the place.
Street Food in South Sudan and Juba
Street food plays a pivotal role in feeding the masses, and Juba’s streets are lined with vendors selling everything from fried fish to freshly squeezed juice. However that is not to say that the Street Food in South Sudan is anywhere near the level you might get in Kenya, Ethiopia, or even Sudan, but things are changing, slowly.
One of the best places to sample street food in Juba is the Central Market. This chaotic, lively hub offers not only food but a variety of local delicacies to try later on. I personally tried a few of the fresh juices, as well as pushing some dried fish (luka), as well as the South Sudanese take on peanut butter.
Other must try street food dishes here included fried fish with rice, sambasa (a deep-fried pastry filled with meat), Full Medames (a spiced fava bean dish), and Chinchinga (BBQ skewers, South Sudanese-style).
Comrades Restaurant
If you’re looking to split the difference between street food and a more refined dining experience, Comrades Restaurant offers a nice middle ground. Despite its name, you won’t find anything remotely communist here, but it does provide a decent selection of South Sudanese dishes in a local setting.
Notable dishes at Comrades include the ever-popular Nile Perch, a South Sudanese favorite, and jabena, a hearty meat stew (with goat being the best). There is also a fair bit of just standard chicken, as well as other western fare if you just need some simple cheap comfort food. Although with South Sudanese money being the way it is even a cheap meal costs bundles of cash.
Eating with the Mundari
The highlight of any trip to South Sudan is undoubtedly the opportunity to eat with the Mundari people. This pastoral group, who live in the swamps of South Sudan, have an entirely different approach to food, most of it revolves around milk. Now if you are adventurous enough you can try said milk very warm and quite literally fresh from the teet. Not for everyone, but if you have a sense of adventure why not!
Otherwise your food when you camp is provided by your very adept chefs who are from the Dinka rather than the Munadri tribe. We were serve some great fruit and vegetables, chicken, as well as South Sudanese stew. The highlight though, well for me at least though was the Luka fish served with Ocra and the South Sudanese variant of peanut butter sauce. Perhaps not the best food I have ever had in my life, but well worth trying.
Conclusion on Street Food in South Sudan
In conclusion, the street food scene in South Sudan is not for the faint-hearted or those seeking haute cuisine, but it does offer enough variety to make your visit worthwhile. From the fresh juices in the Central Market to the fried fish, peanut butter, and skewers, there’s a good selection of street food for those willing to step outside their comfort zone.
So, if you’re planning on visiting this fascinating, though complex, country, don’t miss out on the chance to try the local food. It might not be as adventurous as Ethiopia or Kenya, but it’s still an essential part of understanding the culture of this young, evolving nation.
Check out our South Sudan Tours if you’d like to try the street food in South Sudan for yourself!
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