When thinking of Mao Zedong, people often picture the revolutionary leader, the strategist, the founder of modern China. But few consider his lasting imprint on something as everyday and intimate as food.
In China, cuisine is never just about flavour. It tells stories, signals values, and carries history in every bite. Join us on this red journey and let’s explore Mao’s legacy in cuisine: how his influence simmered far beyond revolution and into the kitchens.
Table of Contents
THE MAO’S BRAISED PORK OF SHAOSHAN
Our red culinary journey begins in Shaoshan, the hometown of Chairman Mao Zedong.
In 1914, Mao Zedong started studying at the First Normal School of Hunan. Every Saturday, the school served braised pork as a treat for the students. It was during this time that Mao developed a deep fondness for this dish.
Traditionally, braised pork is flavoured and coloured with soy sauce. However, after visiting a soy sauce workshop and deeming its production process unhygienic, Mao refused to consume soy sauce ever again. This posed a particular challenge – not only does soy sauce add flavour, but it also gives the pork its signature glossy reddish-brown hue, without which the dish can seem both unappetizing and bland.
Once he became the leader of the country, Mao gave a strict order that none of his meals was to include soy sauce. In response, chefs in Zhongnanhai devised a solution: they caramelised sugar to achieve the colour and used a moderate amount of salt for seasoning. The result was a perfectly balanced dish – savoury, subtly sweet, and deeply satisfying. Mao was delighted by it.
The Mao’s braised pork is characterised by its glistening red colour and rich aroma, without being overly greasy. Being from Hunan, Mao enjoyed a bit of spice in his food, so the dish is often prepared with a touch of chilli. The flavour is a harmonious blend of sweet, salty and spicy.
Mao frequently claimed that braised pork was a dish that “nourishes the brain”, reflecting a widely held belief in China about wellness. Whether or not the health claims hold up, the deliciousness of this dish is beyond dispute. It remains a flavourful testament to Mao’s legacy in cuisine – and certainly one worth tasting.
THE MINCED MUTTON NOODLE (SAOZI NOODLE) OF YAN’AN
Yan’an was the base from which Mao Zedong, as the de facto leader of the Communist Party, directed the revolutionary struggle. He lived there for over a decade.
Once an obscure town in north-western China, Yan’an rose to fame as a sacred site of the revolution due to its association with the Communist movement. Among the many culinary delights that gained renown because of Mao’s time there, the minced mutton noodle (Saozi noodle) stand out in particular.
In October 1935, the First Front Army of the CWPRA concluded the Long March and successfully joined forces with the Red Army in northern Shaanxi. On the evening of 18 October, a villager named Zhang from Yan’an’s Wuqi Town, brought out a portion of minced mutton that he had saved since the Mid-Autumn Festival. He prepared a hearty bowl of Saozi noodles for a senior Red Army commander.
Perhaps exhausted from the arduous journey, the commander devoured three large bowls in one sitting, exclaiming, “It’s been a year on the Long March, and this is the best meal I’ve had. Wuqi is a fine place indeed!” Only later did the villager learn that this commander was none other than Mao Zedong himself!
Thanks to this encounter, Yan’an’s minced mutton noodles came to be known as “the first bowl of the Long March” and earned national fame. This, too, forms a memorable part of Mao’s legacy in cuisine.
THE BEIJING DUCK AND THE MUTTON HOT POT OF BEIJING
After the Communist Party came to power, Mao Zedong moved into Zhongnanhai, the central leadership compound in Beijing. Here too, one can trace Mao’s legacy in cuisine.
You might wonder: aren’t Beijing Duck and Mutton Hot Pot time-honoured dishes from imperial China? What do they have to do with Mao Zedong? Yet even these classic meals were touched by Mao’s instruction.
In 1956, China completed its socialist transformation, turning all capitalist businesses into publicly owned enterprises. Historic brands in Beijing, such as Quanjude, famous for its roast duck, and Donglaishun, known for its mutton hot pot, were no exception.
That same year, People’s Daily, the official newspaper of the Communist Party, published a report noting that Donglaishun had lost favour with the public. Many complained that the meat had become increasingly unpalatable. The root of the problem was traced to government directives demanding lower prices and greater efficiency, which led restaurants to compromise on quality in order to meet quotas.
The issue eventually reached Zhongnanhai, and Mao brought it up for discussion during a State Council meeting. He stressed the need to address such disregard for the natural workings of the market. Mutton, he insisted, must remain delicious, and roast duck ought to be even better than before to demonstrate the superiority of socialism.
On several occasions thereafter, Mao emphasised that establishments like Donglaishun must preserve and carry forward their quality and character. As his famous quote: “Under socialism, our mutton should taste even better than it did under capitalism.” Thanks to his direct intervention, the quality of traditional dishes such as Beijing Duck and Mutton Hot Pot gradually improved. Today, they remain beloved staples of Beijing’s culinary scene, which is also Mao’s legacy in cuisine.
CONCLUSION
As explored in this blog, Mao’s legacy in cuisine weaves together not only the revolutionary landmarks of China, but also the life story of Mao himself. From the braised pork of Shaoshan, to the minced mutton noodles of Yan’an, and the Beijing duck and hot pot of the capital, each dish carries with it the rich memory of China’s revolutionary past.
With years of experience in red tourism across China, YPT is proud to offer in-depth and engaging tours that delve into this unique aspect of history.
On our annual Chairman Mao & Nanjiecun Collective Village Tour, you will visit Mao’s birthplace in Shaoshan, gain a deeper understanding of his life, and savour first-hand the dishes that form Chairman Mao’s Legacy in Cuisine – from the kitchens of Shaoshan to the restaurants of Beijing.
Our China Revolutionary Red Base Tour takes you to Yan’an, where you’ll not only enjoy traditional noodles with the story of Mao’s legacy in cuisine, but also gain a comprehensive insight into the roots of China’s communist revolution.
YPT also organises tours to a wide range of other destinations across China. You can explore them on our China Tour page.
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