From my drinking days in the UK all the way to China and beyond there has always been a place I have called “piss alley”. This is usually an alley next to a street food establishment where people urinate.
In Tokyo though this has been taken to a whole new level with there literally being an epic street known as “piss alley”.
Tucked away in the neon glow of Shinjuku lies a hidden gem of Tokyo’s nightlife—Omoide Yokocho, better known as Piss Alley. Despite its rather unglamorous nickname, this narrow maze of alleyways serves up some of the best street food, drinks, and atmosphere you’ll find in Japan.
Click the link to learn about Chicken Sashimi in Japan
Why is it Called Piss Alley?
The name might raise an eyebrow or two, but it has its roots in post-war Tokyo. Back in the day, the alley lacked proper restroom facilities, so late-night revelers would pretty much just piss here. Nowadays they have pissers, but you know the name has stuck.
Do not try any form of alfresco urination here, or you will get arrested. It does though make for a great place to check in on Facebook.
A Step into Old Tokyo
Walking into Piss Alley is like entering a time capsule. The alley’s humble beginnings trace back to the 1940s, when it was a black market hub. Over the decades, it evolved into a bustling strip of food stalls and izakayas (Japanese pubs). Despite its central location in modern Shinjuku, Piss Alley has managed to retain its retro charm, with lanterns, smoke-filled air, and cramped seating creating an authentic atmosphere.
What to Eat in Piss Alley
Yakitori
The smoky aroma of grilled skewers is impossible to resist. From tender chicken to adventurous options like chicken hearts and gizzards, yakitori is the cornerstone of Piss Alley cuisine.
Offal Hotpot (Motsunabe)
For the more daring, try motsunabe—a hotpot of beef or pork intestines simmered with vegetables in a savory broth. It’s a hearty and flavorful experience that pays homage to Japan’s nose-to-tail eating philosophy.
Grilled Seafood
Freshly grilled seafood like squid and mackerel is another must-try. Perfectly seasoned and cooked over open flames, it pairs beautifully with an ice-cold beer or sake.
The Drinks: Sake, Shochu, and More
A visit to Piss Alley wouldn’t be complete without a drink in hand. Whether you’re sipping on sake, shochu, or a draft beer, the tiny bars are perfect for relaxing and mingling with locals and fellow travelers. Don’t be surprised if you end up making new friends—it’s all part of the experience.
Tips for Exploring Piss Alley
- Be Ready to Squeeze In
Seating is tight, and that’s part of the charm. Don’t expect much personal space, but do expect great conversation and food. - Cash is King
Most places only accept cash, so make sure you’ve got yen on hand. Yes Japan has not yet fully embraced 2024! - Be Adventurous
Menus might not be in English, but pointing and smiling works wonders. Step out of your comfort zone and try something new. - Mind the Smoke
Great news for smokers as rigs place is considered “indoors” and smoke friendly. I will later do an article about the weird smoking laws of Japan!
Why Visit Piss Alley?
Piss Alley is more than a food destination—it’s a cultural experience. It’s where the old Tokyo meets the new, where locals and tourists share smoky, boozy moments in a space untouched by time. Whether you’re there for the yakitori or the vibe, you’re guaranteed to leave with a story to tell.
So, next time you’re in Tokyo, make a detour into Shinjuku’s labyrinth and discover the unforgettable flavors and history of Piss Alley. It’s not just a meal; it’s a memory.
YPT will going to a whole heap of weird places on our Japan Tours. Click to join, or get in touch if you have questions
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